Halibut, salisfy, white asparagus on December menu at The Small Holding
DECEMBER AT THE SMALL HOLDING
The farm sleeps. This is an important time as the soil, every inch of which is maximised for nine months of the year, rests, and recovers. While there are still plenty of hardy winter cropping vegetables, such as brassicas and roots, most of the ground is fallow. There is, however, solace to be found in the bright, clean flavours of the season’s produce, cranberries, brussels sprouts, and red cabbage provide a burst of invigorating colour, taste and texture. There is plenty to brighten the cold, thin days before Spring returns.
As winter tightens his grip, the menu at The Small Holding moves from ‘just picked on the farm’ to the delights of the pantry. Cherries have been steeping for months in brandy, the hedgerow sloes and damsons have been transformed with vodka or gin, sugar, and the most important ingredient, time, into inky dark liqueurs to use in cocktails, marinades or to make into cherry ketchup for the December turkey main course. Bronze turkeys come from farmer John Howe in nearby Biddenden, which have been traditionally slow-reared with a life spent outside, freely pecking, and roaming. On the Full Acre menu is Kentucky fried turkey, wild garlic mayo, pickled walnut ketchup followed by Turkey breast, sprouts, chestnuts, pig cheek and cherry ketchup. Turkey certainly isn’t just for Christmas Day.
December Menu at The Small Holding
Snacks, Sourdough & Hinxden Dairy Butter
Squash, Kimchi, Yogurt
Artichoke, Cheese, Pickles
Scallop, Pumpkin, Sea Buckthorn
Halibut, Salsify, White Asparagus
Turkey leg, Black Garlic, Chilli
Turkey breast, Sprouts, Pork Cheek
Milk, Honey, Pollen
Chocolate, Cep, Shitake
The Small Holding is open Wednesday to Sunday with an eight-course Full Acre menu costing £85 per person and a five-course Half Acre menu costing £65 per person, with the option of a wine flight. The drinks list also includes housemade soft drinks, kombucha and non-alcoholic wine, beer and spirits.
About The Small Holding
The Small Holding is a Michelin green-starred kitchen and farm on a country lane in the village of Kilndown on the Kent and East Sussex borders. Run by brothers Will and Matt Devlin, as Chef and Head of Operations, respectively, The Small Holding is part of the Acre Group which also includes Birchwood in Flimwell, East Sussex.
The 36-cover restaurant and farm is set in one acre of land, permitting a unique connection between the land and table. Growing, foraging and cooking the best ingredients is at the core of The Small Holding, with monthly changing tasting menus, using home-reared and home-grown ingredients from the farm, which is less than 10 feet from the kitchen.
The menu is defined by the farm’s own produce. Vegetables and fruits are harvested within hours of guests arriving; while charcuterie, sourdough and cultured butter and zero waste animal cookery from the farm’s own livestock, are made on site. The kitchen team works directly with growers, farmers and fishermen who share the same core values, and the team forage in the nearby hedgerows and woodland.
The Michelin Green Star for sustainable gastronomy recognises restaurants with a focus on environmental practices; it encompasses everything about The Small Holding and the teams’ drive for sustainability.
“Growing our own produce on the farm brings an understanding and honesty back to the kitchen, and vital freshness. Making the most of our harvests when the ingredients are at their prime - whilst also preserving and conserving them to use throughout the year, keeps us concentrated on the natural cycle of the land and helps us to create full flavoured and imaginative dishes.” Will Devlin
