Venision from Eridge Estate with wild mushroom relish at The Counter, Tunbridge Wells
November at The Counter
November at The Counter is a beautiful month with a menu packed with new season offerings such as Jerusalem artichokes, quince, squash and wild mushrooms. On chef patron Robin Read’s menus is the first of the Sussex venison from Eridge Park, one of the most sustainable, wild and delicious meats we can eat, partnered with thyme and green peppercorn sauce. It’s the time of the year to use extra butter, although, when is it not, and to be cooking with - and drinking - richer, more complex wines such as one of co-owner Greta Boccia-Read’s favourites, Vietti Barbera d’Alba Tre Vigne, from the Piedmont region of Italy, its notes of black fruit, tobacco and vanilla pairing beautifully alongside a dish of aged Sussex fillet of beef. And for an extra treat this month, guests are offered a bowl of house made casarecce, a short, twisted pasta shape, literally translating to ‘homemade’ with a generous shaving of British truffles from Wiltshire.
Diners have a choice of three-, five-, eight-course menus, costing £40, £60, £96 respectively, which are shorter versions of the ten-course menu. Three or six-glass wine pairing is £36 or £70, while the eight-glass pairing is £96 per guest and a three-glass non-alcoholic pairing is £32. The ten-course tasting menu is reserved exclusively for guests sitting at the pass overlooking the kitchen and gives diners an interactive experience watching Robin and his team of chefs cook and plate up at the pass; the menu is more experimental, taste-testing dishes that are in development for the next month’s menu.
British craftsmanship
British craftsmanship is something that will always be championed at The Counter. Much like the farmers and suppliers Robin buys from, he will always seek out a personal relationship with the people to work with; it feels better, it tastes better, and there is comfort knowing that a small business is supporting another small business. This month sees the introduction of new steak knives at The Counter, hand forged and made in collaboration with three independent blacksmiths, Two Sticks in Forest Row, AB Forge in Shoreham and Blenheim Forge in Peckham. These weighty, beautiful and tactile pieces are a joy to eat with. The new leather-bound wine menus, crafted by Billy Tannery based in the midlands, and one of the last remaining micro tanneries in the UK are now offered proudly to every table.
Open days and hours:
Wednesday, Thursday & Friday: Lunch 12:00 – 14:30, Dinner 18:00 – 23:00
Saturday: 12:00 - 23:00